Questions, answered.

Yes — California Contractor License #673027, Class A General Engineering, active since June 16, 1993. We’re bonded ($25,000 contractor’s surety bond on file with the State of California) and covered by workers’ comp and general liability. You can verify our license directly with the CSLB at cslb.ca.gov.

Since 1993. That’s 33 years of asphalt paving, sealing, crack filling, driveway work, parking lots, and excavation in Butte and Glenn Counties. Same family ownership, same phone number, same crew.

We cover all of Butte and Glenn Counties — Chico (our HQ), Paradise, Oroville, Magalia, Durham, Gridley, Biggs, Palermo, Forest Ranch, Orland, Willows, Hamilton City, and Artois. If you’re near a county line and not sure, call us — we’ll tell you straight whether you’re in our zone.

Both. We do residential driveways and approaches every day, and we also pave commercial parking lots, mobile home park internal roads, agricultural pads, and county-adjacent road work. The same crew handles all of it.

No. Every estimate is free, and there’s no obligation. We come out, measure, look at the existing base and drainage, and write you a clear number. If you don’t like it, throw it away. No high-pressure follow-up sales calls.

Same business day. If you submit through our contact form or leave a voicemail before noon, you’ll usually hear back the same afternoon. We aim for an actual site visit within a few business days, depending on your schedule and ours.

Phone and email ballpark figures are approximate — meant to help you decide if it’s worth scheduling a site visit. Our binding written estimates come after we’ve walked the property and seen the actual base condition, drainage, and access. Once you sign the written estimate, that’s the price.

Check, cash, or major card (cards on jobs over a certain threshold may carry a processing fee). We typically take a deposit at signing, the balance on completion. Specific terms are spelled out on every written estimate.

A standard residential driveway is usually one day of work — demo, base prep, and paving. From the day you sign the estimate to the day you can park on it, plan on roughly 1–3 weeks, depending on weather and where you land on our schedule. The full cure (when the asphalt is fully hardened) takes about 30 days.

Late September through mid-November is the sweet spot — warm enough for proper curing, before the rains start. Mid-April through June is the next best window. We can pave reliably from April through October; March and December are weather-dependent; January and February are mostly emergency work only. Book early for fall — that window fills up fast.

Stay completely off it for 24–48 hours. Light foot and vehicle traffic is fine after that, but avoid heavy loads, turning your wheels while stopped (power-steering scuffs), or anything sitting on it for long periods for the first month. By 30 days you’re back to normal use. Don’t sealcoat brand-new asphalt for at least 90 days — it needs time to off-gas its lighter oils first.

Usually not, as long as we have clear access to the site and you’ve moved any vehicles out of the work area. We’ll walk the finished job with you when we’re done, either in person or via photos and a phone call. For larger excavation or commercial jobs we sometimes need decisions made on site — we’ll coordinate ahead of time.

With proper base prep, hot-mix asphalt at the right thickness, and regular sealcoating, a residential driveway in our climate can last 20–30 years before needing major work. The single biggest factors are the base underneath (compacted properly?) and whether you let water get into the cracks (sealed every few years?).

Roughly every 3–5 years for residential driveways, more often for high-traffic commercial lots. The honest signal: when the sealcoat starts looking gray and sun-bleached again, it’s time. Don’t overdo it — sealing too often can build up too much surface layer and start delaminating.

Sealcoating is a protective top layer that shields the asphalt from UV, water, and oil — it’s for asphalt that’s still in good shape but aging. Crack filling is a repair: hot rubberized sealant pumped into existing cracks to keep water out. The two often go together — fill the cracks first, then sealcoat over the top. We wrote a detailed diagnostic guide here.

Yes — specific warranty terms vary by service type and are spelled out on every written estimate. As a general matter, workmanship is warrantied for a defined period, and we stand behind anything that fails due to how we did the work. Underlying base settlement caused by site conditions outside our control is usually excluded, which is standard in the industry.